New Caledonia – Not the ideal stay we wanted but you gotta take it as it comes!

We left Port Vila on the morning of May 22nd.  We said goodbye to SV Another Adventure and headed south.  This particular passage was tricky in my humble opinion for 2 reasons:

  1. We needed to enter Havana Pass at low slack water tide and preferably during daylight hours. We needed to time it perfectly.
  2. We were headed in a SW direction and the wind and swell were predicted to be coming at us from the South which means we were heading almost up wind which means our boat speed would be slower, how much slower was the question, and possibly uncomfortable.

The combination of these two factors meant we needed to keep a keen eye on our progress and monitor our speed and arrival time to Havana pass.  In the end, it was a slow passage, as expected, and we arrived at the pass 2 hours early, but all was good….with the exception of our tummies not feeling well….

Our first day of the passage, we choose to leave when the wind and swell was minimal so that we could get as far south as we could before the it kicked up. When the wind kicked up we needed to point more west to get a better sailing angle.
More repairs when we get to New Caledonia….
We finally reached Havana Pass at 8:30 am. Slack low water tide was at 10:10am. The reason you want to enter the pass at low slack water is to time the current with the direction you want to go, for us we wanted the tide to be going in towards the island…not against us. If the tide is going against us and the wind is going against the current, it creates standing waves which for a boat is dangerous as control of the boat decreases. When we decided to enter BEFORE low slack tide the waves were confused and you could see it. We powered on and made it with no problems though our heavy boat would swing side to side with each push of the waves. And of course we were in a squall!
Inside the pass, the landscape was so different…the French mine nickel here and there are almost no trees anywhere, the dirt is red, and it looked almost barren.

We had gone out to dinner with Frank and Ivonne in Vanuatu the night before we left Port Vila.  Trevor started to feel “bad” our first night.  The next day I started to feel crappy.  We started to take medicine for our “tummy issues” but for the entire passage we didn’t eat much…in fact we didn’t even cook ONCE!  When we made landfall, we felt on the mend but still tried and weak from not eating and possibly dehydrated.

Illegal landfall – The deal in Noumea, New Caledonia to clear into the country is to coordinate with Port Moselle as they contact customs and Bio-Security for you.  We arrived near the city close enough to be in VHF radio range on Friday about 3:30pm.  Unfortunately they did not have room on their visitors dock and told us to anchor out and contact them the next day to see if they had room.  We heard the “anchorage” near Port Moselle was full of moorings..which it is… and to be careful of old boats getting loose from said moorings.  So we decided to take the advice from Frank (SV Another Adventure) regarding a great little anchorage 6 miles away with great protection from SE, SW wind and swell called Ilot Ndo or Ile Uere.

It was perfect!  We anchored in 18 feet of water in sand and light coral with 5 other boats.  We had planned to call Port Moselle every day to see if there was room but there was no rush as we thought the official offices would be closed over the weekend…so we were just going to hang out on the boat as technically we are not to go “ashore” until we are cleared into the country.  However, there were a few boats from the Go East Rally from Australia who invited to us to join them and BBQ at the little hut ashore.  We gladly accepted to talk to other people besides each other…on a platform of LOVE!

Jim from a beautiful steel boat taxied us in so we wouldn’t have to drop our dinghy. When we got there 2 guys and a gal were hanging out drinking Red Label…my kind of peeps. They offered some to us…speaking very little english but we got by with hand motions etc.
When everyone arrived ashore, the locals offered us some fish they had caught. They started a fire and we all tasted some of their catch. It was the first time for me to try a the meat from a conned shell that looked like a large snail. I don’t know what they are called but it it was chewy like a prawn but tougher…it was good!
They were playing music on their phone and it almost brought tears to my eyes…they were playing a song I recognized from a really good friend, Hannah Anderson-Geroux, who introduced me to Francis Cabrel. I tried to sing along..but it’s in French…they laughed at me…I didn’t care it was so good to hear something that reminded me of home and especially all the wonderful memories with Hannah, and trust me there is alot!  See below for the song….

 

Then they left…. I think the gal was totally drunk…she is laying in the front of the boat…at some point we discovered she no longer was with the men and asked if she was ok….they said yes….she should be in good hands.
We had such a nice time with these guys. 2 boats that come up from Australia on the Go East Rally. They picked us up, dropped us off, let us use their portable BBQ, we all shared wine and just had a great chat about everything…you know how that goes : ) It was such a nice welcome to New Caledonia. The next day Port Moselle had room for us and we said see you later to these guys and wished them a great sail onward!

Noumea – We had stopped taking medicine and started to feel terrible again so we spent the first week feeling crappy.  Movies and rest was about what we could do after clearing in officially (it’s free) when we arrived at Port Moselle marina.  We did manage to visit a museum and learned about the Kanuk culture here in New Caledonia and Trevor got a much-needed haircut and went to see Dead Pool 2…in FRENCH (Trevor said he asked if it was showing in english but things got lost in translation).  We also learned that New Caledonia will be putting up to a vote this November if they should seek independence from France (remember Vanuatu just got independence in 1980).  It’s a big controversy here and I imagine if the referendum for independence does go through…this place will be very different from what we are experiencing now.

We are sad we weren’t feeling up to adventuring out so much and to take advantage of all the good food and wine and social life Noumea has to offer.  But we needed to take care of ourselves and our energy spent on the necessary tasks.  There are so many cool things we have read and heard about here but our short schedule and not feeling 100% determined we would miss most of it….you just can’t see everything!

Our slip at Port Moselle marina….I took this not even at the back of our boat….yes the dock is not even halfway down our vessel. Additionally, we were inches from our neighbor on our starboard (right) side. The visitor dock here is generally not so busy and we were surprised that we could not find a space there…but 2 rally and 2 races were either here or coming in June and they just couldn’t accommodate everyone. Further, they generally let people stay for about a week, space depending but have been known to kick people out. We could only secure a spot for 5 nights.
This is on a Sunday…everything was pretty much closed. Shops also close for lunch between noon and 1:30pm so basically get things started early. Another observation: Maybe it’s the French influence but people didn’t smile much…until yo would say “Bonjour”..then we would see a transformation to the pacific islander’s smile come alive. Most of the people here are from Melanesia, dark curly hair with beautiful dark skin, similar to those on the north island of Fiji and throughout Vanuatu. We expected to see a bunch of white French folks but we saw very few in our few outings into town or the store. If you want fashion…it’s here… in combination with pacific island wear of MuuMuus, a long loose dress in colorful floral patterns.
Trevor has been wanting his haircut for ever…I just didn’t feel up to it so we ventured out and found a salon to wash and cut for about $20. He looks like he is enjoying it rather than me butchering it in the heat of the sun : )
Catholic church….very ornate and the iron work was beautiful. I think it was constructed around 1880’s
Because the movie was in french, we of course didn’t get all the jokes which is too bad because it seemed to us the dialogue was really MOST of what made this movie good…we heard : ) Oh well. We found out that they do play movies in english…just on certain days.
I didn’t have to twist his arm too much…just getting off the boat was a good idea.
Replica of a traditional Kanuk house
These are “money” in the Kanak culture…it is literally a representation of their ancestors. It has a “head” and a “foot” and the backbone are the beads. It is not used to buy or sells items but rather it indicated a commitment to do something or was used as an exchange or gift to show respect.
Kanak bamboo engraving is well-known… whenever Kanak ventured outside their villages they carried with them an engraved bamboo to ward off danger along the way. The bamboos were sometimes filled with magical herbs for protection. The bamboo tube was carved while it was still green because, once cut, it begins to dry out very quickly and becomes very difficult to engrave. The etchings were done using quartz crystals, claws of crustaceans, seashells, and more recently metal blades or improvised knives. The tube was then either rubbed with oil from trees, or it was held over a fire, allowing the soot to deposit into the incised parts. Then the engraved patterns emerged in black on surface of the bamboo. The engraving was incredibly detailed and I can’t imagine the time ti took to create just 1 tube.

Boat work it is never done starting to feel better, we started to work on the boat.  As previously mentioned, our engine was overheating….we had a local mechanic stop by to just chat with us about what else we could do.  We turned in our jib sheet (head sail) to get the tear repaired.  AND…our head stopped working!  That was not a fun job.

Shouldn’t that hose be fitted to that thruhull?
Trevor fashioned a “tool” to try to clear out our thruhull to see if there was an obstruction that could be restricting the amount of water flow to cool the engine. Water would pour in (because it is below the water line) until he would shut the valve off in between shoving the “tool” down the fitting….fun time!
After many checks and rechecks…we finally had a mechanic from Yacht Help come over again to talk things through. Basically we determined that what our temperature gauge stated (230 degree fahrenheit) is not really what the engine was at…otherwise we would not have been able to work on the engine 30 minutes later as it would have been too hot for us to touch for hours. This is a good thing…I think. Additionally, he said that if our engine was running as hot as our current gauge shows there would be serious signs we could see like steam and the block on the engine would be RED! These did not happen. He thought it was a sender (electronic bit that tells the gauge information…like in your car) and/or the gauge was not properly operating. We walked 5.4 km to 6 auto part stores and still could not find the part we needed. After putting back the engine (coolant, thermostat, etc.) we fired her up and she held at a rough 160 degrees fahrenheit…actually a bit low…we want to see 180 degrees. I guess whatever Trevor did fixed the issue…of course we don;t know exactly what made it work…just thankful it is running.
Our front head vacuflush pump is in a very peculiar spot….Trevor spent hours..literally hunched over this thing trying to get hoses and pumps connected and disconnected….there was a lot of swearing…”SHIT”!!!!!
We tried everything….cleaning out the vacuum tank, plunging the toilet, cleaning out any 90 degree angles in the hoses, changing out the pump to a rebuild one…nothing worked…going to have to order parts in Australia.

Indonesian 3 month visas- The entire reason why we are here in Noumea, New Caledonia was to apply and obtain our 3 month social visas.  Thankfully we at least achieved this : )

The entry to the Indonesian consulate in Noumea.
OMG…releasing our passports…it is a scary thing to do..at least for me
Chole, an operations manager of a company that manages super yachts was our local contact to help us obtain our Indonesian visas. We needed to pay for our visas but the consulate does not take cash or credit cards..only checks. So Chole was able to write one for us in exchange for cash.  She was amazing and we would wave to one another when we saw her drive past us in town.

Finally we completed our visa process and have started to look for a weather window to head to Cairns, Australia to meet up with the Rally.  We also need to get some spare parts and do a little work on the boat (yes…when we arrive at a dock, this generally means boat work and tasks…not fun in the sun unfortunately).  We will be underway for our 14th anniversary so I made Trevor promise me we could see Koalas and Wallabies for our anniversary when we arrive in Cairns.

Ahhhh…much better! We moved from Port Moselle marina to Port Du Sud marina for our last few days. We got to dock on a long wharf…I actually docked at the helm for the first time! It feels good to be more secure : )

p.s. Engine running at 160 degrees…still don’t know exactly what the problem was.  Our freezer stopped working and one of our heads (toilets) is still nonfunctional.  But we are headed out anyways…touche!

5 comments

  1. All I can say is another WOW! There is a higher power looking after you two that’s for sure. Glad your tummies are better.. hope all will becwellbonbyourvnext adventure. We are having lots of company coming in and getting the Montreat house ready.. We had big flood here but we are fine. Could not drink water here for 5 days. So many trees n power out. But we were fortunate. Paul is not doing as well as we hoped but still goes outvwulithbhis buddieson Wedsnd Kiwanis on Thurs.and church on Sun.. sleeps eats and watches TV. .? He bathes on Tues n Fri only Franklin helps most every day. And Elissa always here in evenings. If I am gone.. went to Bazel’s. 8th grade graduation… last week. Took Sarah and Eliot. Ben bought a plane. Hoping to fly it back here soon. Oh my one child on water onevin air. I pray for all your safety… Wendy n boys coming Sat. Brother n family coming today.. lots of food to prepare and cleaning. Hope to make some pottery in July!!! Missing y’all!!! Carport got poured on my bday 5/22 nice. Now for a wall!!! Love and hugs to you two sailors!!!

  2. Thankful all those cuss words get things functioning! And enjoy Australia! Sounds like a brief stay, but do enjoy. Glad you are feeling better and I look forward to your next post.

  3. Guys you wont believe it but I’m in Noumea !
    I’m onboard SV Tortuga in Marina Port Moselle Dock D at the end
    ( but will move to another dock on monday pm) and want to see you and catch up.
    Where are you exactly ?
    please email or call local cell at +687 52 22 62 – drinks ???

    1. Sorry we missed you. We left for AU Cairns on that Saturday and didn’t see your message. Port Moselle was our last stop for duty free fuel on Saturday morning… we were only meters away from D dock. Kimi is going to send off an email to ya with anchored waypoints for the pacific she has accumulated. Travel safe and where to next?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.