We had some reservations about Reunion island before we arrived and was unsure how long we would stay. We were told if you don’t speak French, it’s really difficult to connect or engage, this held true for us in the cities of New Caledonia and French Polynesia. However, this is not the case here in Reunion…everyone we have encountered has been incredibly friendly and helpful…even though we struggle (a lot) with French. For this reason….it has been a very social time here, a slight understatement but first a little bit of administrative info : )
New Marina, The Office at the Old Marina, and the Boat Yard
New Marina
The new marina was built recently to accommodate the demand for berths as there are no safe anchorages around. We are not sure but suspect that many sailboats here are owned by Europeans (French perhaps?) who come to Reunion and sail during Europe’s winter months. It was said that when the new marina was built, it was a struggle to keep “open berths” for foreign yachts therefore there are not many berths available for us cruisers so advanced notice and contact with the marina is a very good idea. The facilities were good with hot showers, garbage and recycling, and security seemed very good.
The harbor in Le Port is generally protected from wind and swell, but as the island is circular there are times when the swell/surge does affect the marina. Most days staying at the new marina was especially pleasant with a nice breeze and hardly any mosquitoes!!!! The sun was warm and the nights were cool enough to sleep with a blanket….we really enjoyed the weather here.
The Office at the Old Marina
We contacted Jerome Belhuerne (no photo as he went on holiday back to France for 3 weeks) at the Marina months before we actually arrived. Jerome was responsive and thorough. Jerome and team at the marina act as the port captain on CH 09, different from the Coast Guard on ch 16. They organize procedures for clearance in/out of the country. We were asked to complete an arrival form with an estimated date of arrival and a few days notice when we would be arriving. In return we received a map of the marina with our berth assignment.
As instructed, we hailed them on CH 09 3 miles from the harbor to confirm our berth assignment and upon arrival, we met Pierre and Angelique who soon became fast friends. Pierre had a welcome package which included keys to the gate, wifi passwords, maps of town and local advertisements. He kindly took the time to show us all the good places: cheapest rental car, grocery shops, laundry, cell providers, and of course the boulangieries! Two officials showed up to the boat and within 5 minutes, we were cleared in! Got to love the French : ) This team was so much fun and helpful with local knowledge…..5 star service here!
The Boat Yard
Since we hauled out in Mauritius, we didn’t have the need to utilize the boat yard here in Reunion, but we had our friends on SV Miriari (Iker and Noemi) there and met Susanne on SV Nehaj who were at there. We were happy that we decided to haul out in Mauritius as the facilities were much nicer…but with that said, here, there seemed to be plenty of expertise and available parts. Additionally, speaking English was not as much of a hindrance as we might of thought.
There is a navy base near by and there are expertise for a lot of things, you just have to find them.
SV Nehaj
Meet Susanne… She is from Germany and circumnavigated in 2015-2016. Her custom made aluminum hull, SV Nehaj, suffered structural damage after being swept onto the beach in front of Le Port harbor on July 25th, 2019. We were still in Mauritius but saw a FaceBook post about her incident from a mutual friend. When we arrived in Reunion, we made a point to find her and her “home” to introduce ourselves and to offer any assistance we could provide. Susanne is an incredibly self-sufficient woman and beyond capable of any of the “help” we could extend…so instead I felt that just spending time with her and allowing her to talk about whatever she wanted to was all I was able to offer.
Most of these photos below are provided by Marc Tournet and Peter Schieder from their post in the Crossing the Indian Ocean (on passage) FaceBook group.
She had anchored just out front of the Le Port Harbor and had planned to come into the marina the next morning. Unfortunately, a large front added with a spring tide, the wind shifted and soon she had a lee shore. She began to drag anchor and the swell began to take her closer to shore. Other details I am not breast to but nonetheless, the waves pounded her up the beach.
Below is a link to the article here locally in Reunion. You will have to translate the page to English but the video is only provided in French…
When we left Reunion, repairs were underway and she had met with a welder to repair the 8 stress cracks in the hull. She had already contacted the designer of the boat back in Holland and they confirmed repair was possible. Susanne knows this boat inside and out and we have no doubt she will be back to “snuff” in no time. Her wish is to keep going to South Africa and we sincerely hope to see her this season.
Susanne…if there is anyone who can get through this…it is you! You are one of the most determined people I have ever met, with a kind heart, and extraordinary audacity! We wish you and SV Nehaj a swift recovery and headed back out to sea where it is clear, you both belong…hugs!
Town of Le Port
It’s true….we have gained at least 10 kg here in Reunion…..good French wine, baguettes and pastries every day….A slice of France in the middle of the Indian Ocean!
The town was quaint and clean, very civilized with a mix of old and new buildings. Plenty of shopping all around but note that most shops close between noon-2pm. Some shops are closed Mondays or Fridays so check the hours before assuming everything will be open.
Provisioning was great! Lots of options but we spent most of our time shopping at the Jumbo mall and caught a ride with Louise, now know as our “Uber” driver (LOL). Meats, cheeses of all kinds, really…anything you can think of…except for black beans?!….we haven’t seen black beans for ever and thought for sure we would find them here…nope. We thought food in general was a bit more expensive here than Mauritius, but the variety sure did make up for the cost!
The office of Tourism was the place that has good information about different hikes and tours. Bruce and Laura went here and found a great hike we did in Cirque de Mafate we all did…it was FABULOUS!!!
Internet was great with the marinas wifi so while we were at the boat, internet was free (well you have to pay for the berth so not exactly free). However, when we did get a SFR SIM card, they told us to get a “tourist” SIM which cost us about 15 Euros. We had to go every 5 days to top up and it was a pain. We later found out that the marina will write you a letter stating something to the effect that you are a “resident” which allows you to get a “non-tourist” SIM card and can take advantage of better priced plans. Just ask Angelique or Pierre for the letter and they will provide one.
As you can see….plenty of fabulous services here..no wonder we stayed almost a month here. Unfortunately I can’t fit into any of my clothes….
Up next: One step at a time…Hiking Cirque de Mafate